Dienstag, 15. Dezember 2009 MANAUS
Neun Tage Manaus liegen hinter uns. Gestern Abend kamen wir wohl behalten hier, also, äh, zuhause, d.h. in Campo Grande, an. Es war eine Reise mit sehr gemischten Eindrücken. Das Spektrum reicht von großer Freude über das Wiedersehen mit alten Freunden bis zum Entsetzen über das allgegenwärtige Verkehrschaos und den Verfall von Teilen der Urwaldmetropole.
FREITAG, 4. DEZEMBER 2009
5:30 h Ortszeit. Die Boeing 737 verlässt den Flughafen von Campo Grande und nimmt Kurs auf Brasília. Es folgt ein ereignisloser Flug von eineinhalb Stunden. Ankunft Punkt 8 Uhr Ortszeit. Unterwegs haben wir die Zeitzone gewechselt. After three hours, it goes to Manaus, the capital of Amazonas state. Flight time 2 hours and 40 minutes. Arrival at 11:40 h. We have changed the time zone again. This time in the other direction. In addition, Manaus has no daylight saving time. If a city near the equator make themselves really no point.
About half an hour breaks before landing at the clouds and gives a view of a sea of green with light brown stripes. The light brown stripes of the Rio Solimões, one of two streams that form the Amazon, and its Inflows. The brown color is no pollution, but is due to the clay dissolved in the water her.
rises Chance to smoke. Where there's smoke, fire. And where fire is soon no more rain forest. But the extent of deforestation has been reduced so much already. The government says.
landing in Manaus. International airport. You can fly from here including a good 5 hours directly to Miami. As long as you travel around and to Sao Paulo.
I like small, manageable airports. From the plane to the terminal is a few steps. Once in the terminal must be based only briefly whether the cases arrive at the left or right hand baggage will be. Links also. Not five minutes later we have all our stuff together and expect us go towards the exit, where even our friends with their children and Álvaro Elisama us. See you after 12 years. There must be ashamed for not a tear.
At the exit of the airport building, it is as if we crash into an invisible wall of hot and humid air would. Now, Campo Grande's also not just a cold hole. But the heat is here once again from a different caliber. Just do not worry and get the blood pumping. Shut down the contrary, the metabolism to a minimum and produce maximum relaxation.
Manaus is a city of about two million people and not as relaxed as Campo Grande. A large proportion of the population lives in apartment high-rises, for safety's sake. We have Happiness. Our friends have recently moved and live in a house in a small Condomínio - with swimming pool.
the evening we visit the "Ponta Negra", the beach promenade and entertainment district of Manaus. Because of the enormous width of the river, the Rio Negro, one has to stand, in fact, the impression of an ocean beach. We notice very quickly that Manaus is much more expensive than Campo Grande. The obvious explanation, of course, the long transport distances of many goods and the resulting higher transport costs.
Saturday 5 December 2009
the first night with air conditioning is behind us. While our hosts here choose the usual 19 degrees as the target temperature, we content ourselves with 25 degrees and little understanding for this harvest. The air conditioning in the bedrooms are - not surprisingly - the main responsibility for an electricity bill of 200 € - per month. Sleeping without air conditioning is in this place but not for the life possible. Over the temperature to be selected as mentioned but there are different Views.
In the afternoon we will visit the INPA - the National Institute for the Study of Amazonia. And the journey turns into a test of patience. A seemingly endless traffic jam - within the city - is overcome. I learn that the whole city is under construction.
Manaus is one of the venues for World Cup 2014, Brazil intends to win. And for this mega event will the roads be brought back on track. The dam serves to some extent einem höheren Zweck.
Aus Sicht der Kinder ist die Hauptattraktion des INPA der „peixe-boi“, wörtlich der „Ochsenfisch“, besser bekannt als Seekuh. Eine Art davon lebt im Amazonas. Scheinbar schwerelos gleiten die tonnenschweren Säugetiere durchs Wasser.
SONNTAG, 6. DEZEMBER 2009
Als ich unsere Kinder am Morgen daran erinnere, dass heute Nikolaustag ist, sind sie – angesichts von geschätzten 34 degrees - for a moment puzzled remember, but very fast and want to know where the presents were for. This question makes me not unprepared. As a gift, there is a two-day trip into the forest, the tropical rain forest (floresta tropical). A former colleague and good friend of Oriana us leaves generously to his estate ("Sitio") about 100 km north of Manaus, near the small town "Presidente Figueiredo.
The road is paved and there is now passable. As Oriana in 1995 left Manaus, that was not the case. On the way we see a sign the information that up to Caracas, the Venezuelan capital, are "only" 2,000 km. We consider a moment reject the idea but again quickly.
That the rain forest burning in several places just can not see us, but smell. An unmistakable burning smell in the air. The burning of the forest is of course forbidden - the letter of the law referred to. The executive branch of the state of Amazonas is distinguished in this respect not just by over-zealous from. And Copenhagen is far away.
In an hour we are there. The owner ("dono"), Dr. Arnoldo, welcomes us personally. A small river runs through the area of 40 hectares. There he stands knee deep in water, with a cool drink in hand, chatting with other guests.
We learn from him that this year the water level is very low. To this time of year there always low tide. The snow melt in the Andes, where the many sources of the Amazon are in, is over, the amount of rain during these months is low. fall this year, however, both the extremely high water and the low water. One consequence of climate change, one assumes, but does not know it exactly.
fly again and again large blue and red parrots (macaws) high over our heads. Dr. Arnoldo considers his property as a "green account". He has "deforested" only a small part, to place a veranda, 4 small rooms and a pavilion can. The rest is virgin forest. He also allowed that animals that show up occasionally, such as capybaras ("water pigs") or large lizards (lagartas ") to be killed. I get the impression that he is with this attitude limited majority. But that does not bother him further. He is a successful doctor, has made outstanding contributions to health care for all and Manaus Amazonia.
The paddle in the fresh river water is popular with all ages. The water is clear, however, a dark color. We are in the catchment area of the Black River, the Rio Negro. The dark water pleases the mosquitoes do not they avoid the area. Nice for us.
here outside of the million city of Manaus, it is much more pleasant climate. Not to speak of "fresh" would be, however exaggerated.
MONDAY, 7 December 2009
An eventful night is behind us. That the bedroom would be kept simple, knew us. That is why we brought with fans. However, too little. Marcus and I bravely declare ourselves ready to renounce, in favor of women and children on the cooling fan.
My son falls asleep easily. I do not sleep. At some point, I shower again, the mattress exchange for the hammock. But the nights in the hammock to be practiced. At dawn, after all, it is cool enough to fall asleep in the room.
On the way back to Manaus, we pass a water play park (parque Aquatico ") over. Since the children are clearly in the majority, we stop there.
Tuesday, 8 December 2009
holiday in Manaus, "Immaculate Conception" ("Nossa Senhora da Conceição). If you do not know - on the streets you would not notice it. All shops are open as usual, only public institutions remain closed.
We are invited to lunch with colleagues and former neighbors Orianas Nilson. For several years he lived in one of the most prestigious "Condominios" from Manaus. A Condomínio is a collection of houses in a fenced area, with secure access and community facilities such as the obligatory swimming pool.
Each Condomínio adopt its own rules. Here, for instance, the rule that on the 800 square meter land with houses at least 350 square meters of living space with 2 levels must be built. This limits the potential customers already times a tidy.
Nilson is a gynecologist, his wife, a pediatrician. Lunch is rich, the division of labor as follows: The host takes care of the grill and the beer, the maid does the rest Clear responsibilities are an important prerequisite for success in any situation.
After lunch, relax by the pool is called for. Later gibt es Saft aus dem Zuckerrohr aus dem eigenen Garten. Bis zum Genuss des fertigen Produkts ist es ein anstrengender Weg: Das Zuckerrohr in handliche Stücke schneiden, waschen, längs halbieren und schließlich im Schweiße seines Angesichts auspressen. Doch die Mühe lohnt sich, da sind sich alle einig.
MITTWOCH, 9. DEZEMBER 2009
Eine dichte Wolkendecke über der Stadt lässt jeden Moment Regen erwarten. Die Zeitung meldet, dass der stellvertretende Bürgermeister der Stadt („vice-prefeito“) mit einer Anklage wegen Drogenhandels must be expected. One is skeptical. The Great were grown in the past so often run.
We visit the fine "Tropical Hotel, a five star hotel. One night in a simple single room is to be had for around 250 EUR for the Presidential Suite must lie down to about ten times. The hotel is affiliated to a small zoo with native animals like the jaguar ("jaguar"), various monkeys (macaco) and parrots ("Arara").
We take an older couple from Heidelberg. They are from Miami on a cruise ship run up the Amazon. Also determines an experience. The vast majority of the guests seem Americans beyond the 70 years to be diverse walking and driving aids are included.
Professional is after lunch on the program. Oriana from the past still has an apartment here in the city, which is now to be sold. Buyers and sellers want to meet in the office of the real estate broker. As the traffic situation the city is completely unpredictable, we break two hours before. We are lucky enough to go largely without storage destination. For the meeting is still too early.
Oriana and I take this opportunity to us in the center of Manaus, a look-around. The walk turns into disillusion. Dilapidated, unkempt buildings, unpleasant odors everywhere, sidewalks, inviting you to stumble. That was not always so. Wherever flow like the tax revenue - in the center of Manaus is apparently nothing in it.
Back at the estate agents. The name suggests Italian ancestors. In fact, it was the grandfather, who left after the second world war, Italy and emigrated to Brazil. The grandson said with some pride that he just now the Italian citizenship - received - in addition to Brazil, of course. There
While in the waiting room of the broker stifling heat, the Office of the Chief to well below 20 degrees is cooled down. Here it is clear who Koch and who is a waiter.
the business is quickly resolved. The purchase price was agreed beforehand already. The share of the broker who is paid by the seller in this country, is also found. Only the exact execution will be clarified in detail. Since the sale until next week probably will go on the stage, we apply our local friend here a power of attorney. For this we need to visit the Land Registry. The person responsible turns out to be very competent and efficient. After a few minutes before us is a two-page document, written in a Official Portuguese, which has virtually nothing in common with the everyday language. I rely as completely on my wife. I must also sign.
make the evening we Padre Paulo. Padre Paulo is a Catholic priest and lawyer. This goes together easily in this country. And he is an old friend of Orianas family and now by us. He accompanied Orianas father on his death bed, he dared us here in Manaus, in the year 1995th Several years ago we met in Lisbon, where he had to do business and now we were in transit to Brazil. Two years ago, finally attended to us in Germany, at the first communion of our daughter. And today we see each other again.
Padre Paulo leads a community here in Manaus and works in a - say - the district court. Previously he was a professor at a local university, but he has since abandoned.
He invites us to dinner. He knows as a nice restaurant in the city. Between us and the restaurant of the obligatory traffic jam. After about half an hour, we enter an airy ambience called "Roma", which suggests a superior level of prices. The various food and drink menus to confirm the suspicion. Soon, a nice bottle of red wine from Portugal on the table. My first red wine for almost 5 months. An excellent wines.
allows the selection of food every wish: Brazilian, Italian, Portuguese and Japanese delicacies.
Over of the evening I hear that in Brazil many parents educate their children at school and church are trying to delegate. Also an aspect of globalization? The same debate I know well enough from my time as a parent representative in Germany.
It is a culinary rich and inspiring evening.
THURSDAY 10 December 2009
Only yesterday evening has slammed the police and the "vice-prefeito" Carlos Souza was arrested at his home. Now The family reunited. His brother, Wallace Souza sits, that is already in jail. This was hunting with his television program showed the criminals and crime scenes cruel murders and related casualties. Now he is suspected to have been even more of these killings in order - because of the higher audience rating.
As long as the "vice-prefeito" there has to endure, to be seen. In any case, it is a hopeful sign that also get the "big" feel the force of law.
today for the planned trip to the "Meeting of the Waters" ("Meeting of the Waters") literally falls into the water. Heavy rains. combine a few kilometers downstream from Manaus, two huge streams of the Rio Negro and Rio Solimões, the Amazon. Because both rivers have water of different color, takes place over many miles a breathtaking spectacle. Next try tomorrow.
We see instead the "Teatro Amazonas". Today's landmark of Manaus was in the late 19th Century as the "rubber boom" was still intact. A few years later, and the building would probably have remained a building site. The wealth of the then so-called rubber barons some rare flowers. Sun drinking water was imported from Europe, the clothes make the ladies were shipped to Paris for cleaning, cigars were lit with British pound notes. All this is history.
The boom began with the invention of vulcanization by Charles Goodyear in 1839. This method could be processed into rubber resistant rubber.
In the 1870s British smuggled rubber seeds of the plant into what is now Sri Lanka, from the beginning of the 20th Century, there were large amounts of rubber from Asia on the market. The world monopoly was broken in Brazil, the price fell, the boom was over.
Today is the linchpin of the existence of Manaus, with the generous tax concessions for Companies by the Central Government ("zona franca").
The Amazon Theater is still standing and is - unlike many other old buildings - in mint condition. The material comes largely from Europe, such as the marble from Carrara.
that Caruso had sung there is a legend, even if in Werner Herzog's film "Fitzcarraldo" this will be shown at the beginning of Sun Contemporary tenors José Carreras and Placido Domingo as contrast sind dort bereits aufgetreten.
Außerhalb des Theaters werden wir schnell wieder von der Realität eingeholt. Auf dem Weg zum Hafen müssen wir uns den Weg bahnen zwischen unzähligen Straßenhändlern, die lautstark ihre unwiderstehlichen Angebote anpreisen.
Der Hafen lädt nicht zum Verweilen ein. Der Blick fällt zuerst auf drei große Kreuzfahrtschiffe, dann auf den Müllberg am „Strand“. Hier gibt es nichts weiter zu sehen. From home.
Friday 11 December 2009
day of rest. At least for the children and me. Oriana done some business matters. It was late afternoon, we left the house to post the trip tomorrow.
In the evening we visit a shopping center, which opened recently, the "Manaura shopping. To get there requires from all a great deal of composure. In crawling we achieve some degree stressed the goal. The shopping center does not leave a lasting impression. It is different from other Brazilian institutions of its kind in that was built in the courtyard of a piece of rain forest. However, the entries were closed due to inclement weather.
Saturday 12 December 2009
Our day starts early. Today, we finally an overwhelming natural spectacle will see the birth of the Amazon. The participants of the tour meet at the Hotel Tropical. The ship with about 150 seats on two floors shall promptly starting at 9 clock.
The clouds hang low. With rain expected. We sail down river. After a few minutes we pass the half-completed bridge over the Rio Negro, which is wide at this point "only" 5 km. She will be the first of its kind and probably make yet in use ferries obsolete.
the way we learn from our guide ("guia") that no fewer than 24 km widest part of the Rio Negro about 50 km upstream.
The expected rain manifest. As he comes coupled with wind, ado, part of the protective tarpaulin is lowered. It keeps you dry, but obscures the view.
records after about two hours, a light brown stripe on the south shore but that is noticeably wider. The stage is set for a gigantic spectacle. The mud-colored waters of the Solimões unite with the black waters of the Rio Negro. It is the dividing line is sharp, gradually blurring the outlines. A huge spectacle that can not cloud the rain.
The water in these rivers is different not only in color, but also in temperature and flow rate. While the black water of Rio Negro has 27 to 28 degrees bath temperature and with only 2.5 km / h, moved to the Atlantic, is the clay-colored water of the Rio Solimões with 21 to 22 degrees really fresh and flows three times as fast.
From here the river is - again - Amazon. A few thousand miles further west, beyond the border with Peru, is called the Rio Solimões Amazon already. Outside of Brazil, a distinction is not so accurate. When one speaks of the Amazon, it is thought the total Amazon, from its source in the Peruvian Andes to its mouth near the equator. A dozen of the 10,000 rivers that empty into the Amazon are longer than the Rhine.
Der Himmel hellt sich auf, wir kehren in einem schwimmenden Restaurant zum Mittagessen ein. Das reichhaltige Buffet bietet verschiedene Flussfische in unterschiedlicher Zubereitung an. Ausgesprochen lecker.
Nach der Mahlzeit erkunden wir ein „Igapó“, ein Gebiet, das bei hohem Wasserstand, also um die Mitte des Jahres, überschwemmt wird. Die üppige Vegetation würde dies auf den ersten Blick nicht vermuten lassen. Auf den zweiten Blick erkennt man den Hochwasserpegel an den Baumrinden. Jetzt ist der Wasserstand niedrig, das Gebiet ist nicht überschwemmt und kann zu Fuß durchschritten be. The aim of the walk is a lagoon, water lilies grow in the large ("vitória regia").
Gradually we realize that the very dry soil so it is not. Some people takes off his shoes to run in the mushy-soft clay.
wins on the return trip, the sun prevailed. Sun, a well-filled belly still, gentle waves - just perfect ingredients for a relaxing Nickerchen.
Unser letzter Abend in Manaus. Wir sind erneut zum Abendessen eingeladen – heute bei Álvaro, ebenfalls ein ehemaliger Kollege von Oriana. Natürlich holt er uns ab und bringt uns zu seinem Haus. Er hat es zu was gebracht. In seiner unmittelbaren Nachbarschaft wohnt der Gouverneur des Staates Amazonas. Álvaro wohnt mit seiner Familie in einem sehr großen Haus auf einem 3.000 qm großen Grundstück. Da braucht es schon mehrere Hausangestellte, um das Anwesen in Schuss zu halten. Dieser Lebensstil will natürlich finanziert sein. Ärzte in Manaus arbeiten sehr viel und verdienen sehr gut.
for this evening, he invited two other families of medical colleagues. It is an entertaining evening, with music and singing, with Chilean wine and Italian sparkling wine, served by a specially dedicated waiter.
The Condomínio is an island in this difficult city. Those who can afford it, barricaded himself in such an island and leave them only in cars with tinted windows. Everything has its price.
Sunday 13 December 2009
pack our bags. Goodbye. This time will pass no 12 years until the reunion. Our friends want to visit us in Germany. At least 2012.
Five and a half hour flight ahead of us. With two intermediate landings, where we can sit there, however. Almost like bus travel. First stop is Porto Velho, capital of the state of Rondônia. About two-thirds of the passengers get off the plane fills up again. It's holiday time. The process is repeated in Cuiabá, capital of the state of Mato Grosso not to be confused with Mato Grosso do Sul.
Finally, we land in Campo Grande. Again, the international airport and conveniently small. The question of the correct baggage carousel not applicable - there is only one. After 3 minutes we are perceived in the possession of our luggage, 20 minutes later we are at home. What joy. The mangoes are ripe.
