MAN THING
Holy Thursday evening against 23 clock. About 40 men aged between 20 and 65 are on their way to an almost archaic adventure. We are talking about fishing. The setting: The Pantanal.
And the twenty-first century? The majority of the participants are members of a Masonic Lodge, the Grande Loja. They say, however, that enjoys fishing in other men's circles still very popular.
From my in-laws cousin Aldo was already several times mentioned. Aldo is a Freemason. He had I owe the invitation to this special event.
limited my experience with fish in the past to the selection of food from a tasty bar food and the selection of quick, convenient packaged products from the freezer at the supermarket .
So now the fish as living prey. It is still not that far. Only do about 370 km to be completed. For a brand new ride is comfortable Coach available. The owner of the relevant tour operator is also freemasons, but can not attend due to family reasons, unfortunately.
Even a leisurely rolling coach can cover this distance in 5 hours. This is an estimated time of arrival of 4 would clock in the morning. But it was not to be. The Brazilian angler needs to fulfill its mission, a number of utensils: a river suitable for driving on the boat, a qualified skipper, fishing equipment and bait. The latter must be fresh and therefore be procured on the road.
Relevant operations on the outskirts know exactly when their customers make their way and keep their goods at midnight still happy. What to eat fish like that? Different. Some prefer fruits, other long thick worms, others small fish. At best, we take a little of everything.
Keep going. Another stop is due to the fact that the beer stocks deutlich früher als geplant zur Neige gehen. Einmal Volltanken bitte.
Es ist vermutlich überall auf der Welt das Gleiche. Wenn mehr als zehn menschliche Wesen versammelt sind, so gibt es solche, welche Verständnis dafür aufbringen, dass nachts um zwei Uhr bisweilen das Bedürfnis nach Schlaf aufkommt, und andere, welche diesen Gedanken als völlig abwegig empfinden. Derart polarisiert gelangt unsere Reisegesellschaft kurz nach 5 Uhr ans Ziel.
The goal proved to be a hotel built on stilts on the banks of the Rio Paraguay, the Paraguay River. In the course of a year, I learn, the water level changes of several meters. Therefore, the stilts. At the moment the water level is relatively low. In the spring, around September, the hotel is accessible only by boat.
The Rio Paraguay is a good 2,500 km in length only slightly shorter than the Danube, but only the elftlängste River in South America. It rises in the neighboring state of Mato Grosso, runs through the state of Mato Grosso do Sul and the Neighboring Paraguay in the north-south direction, reached just in Argentina, and finally ends just after the border in the total of 4,000 km long Rio Paraná.
But now is no time for such considerations. Quickly create things out of the bus to the quadruple. Quick throw down a cup of coffee. Quick lubricate a few loaves of bread for the morning. Quick everything necessary for the fishing day to snatch up. The "Piloteiros," the boatman to wait, that already. The early angler catches the fish.
Je zwei Angler und ein „Piloteiro“ teilen sich ein Boot. Mein Angel-Partner heißt Pedrinho und ist seines Zeichens ein wahrhaft passionierter Angler. Bereits während der Busfahrt wird mir von verschiedenen Seiten dazu gratuliert, dass ich Pedrinho als Partner bekommen habe. Pedrinho weiß alles über die Fische dieser Gegend: Was sie gerne fressen, wann sie gerne fressen und wo.
Darüber hinaus besitzt er das erforderliche Equipment in mehrfacher Ausführung, so dass it me, the absolute beginner, can provide you with.
Let's go. Peba, our Piloteiro gives full throttle down the river, the rising sun. A breathtaking landscape passes by us. The landscape is painted. Only the noise of the outboard disturbs the perfect sensation.
The river can not be determined because many are offshore floating on the water plants to the shore. reached after about 20 minutes we the Rio Miranda and go upstream. There should be more fish-rich areas.
about another 15 minutes we are there. It begins the ritual is repeated many times: the boat perpendicular to the flow set, attach the bait, cast your line and - wait. After an uneventful while throwing the Piloteiro to the engine and drive the boat back a bit upstream. The sequence begins again.
falls in very rare cases, a fish in on our bait. Then the soothing tranquility gives way within a split second of a hurry. The person who imagines the spoils of his fishing rod is, by the two co-anglers bombarded with well-meaning statements, so that it may succeed, yes, heave the object of desire on board. overtaken
The proverbial beginner's luck me twice in quick succession. In both cases, the victims are a Pacu (Piaractus mesopotamicus ") of nearly 50 cm in length. The length is of importance and a matter of life and death. The "Instituto de Meio Ambiente de Mato Grosso de Sul, sort of a" State Environmental Institute, "has in effect chosen minimum size per species.
for the pacu is the minimum length of 45 cm. My two victims have therefore unlucky. The dirty work takes the Piloteiro. He reaches into a timber and transported them to a targeted blow from life to death. Others have better luck and get away with a wound caused by fish hooks in the mouth area.
Die Ausbeute des Tages ist sehr überschaubar. Ganze vier Fische entreißen wir dem Rio Miranda. Ich gelange zu dem Schluss, dass der von Angler diesen Typs angerichtete ökologische Schaden verkraftbar ist und durch die finanziellen Transferleistungen in diese strukturschwache Gegend – Angeln ist summa summarum sauteuer – mehr als aufgewogen wird.
Meine Ausbeute erscheint mir als recht dürftig, ich darf jedoch nach unserer Rückkehr an Land feststellen, dass we compare favorably to our fellow anglers well. Our Piloteiro also takes care of the way the rest: provide the "exempt" and fish in the refrigerator.
The working day will be the angler of course it end with the dark against 18 clock. This date is also the alarm for the mosquitoes, so that there are two reasons to retreat to the hotel. In the evening, of course, first of all the diverse experiences decorated during the day. A certain fanciful decoration is allowed here, even desired.
for the next morning awakening is agreed by five clock. The responsible anglers make your bed so early for the night.
The second day is under the sign of a competition ("Campeonato") in the "biggest fish caught" and "the largest number of caught fish" . Another reason to break up early. Again fahren wir der aufgehenden Sonne entgegen. Ein Schauspiel, dessen man schwerlich überdrüssig werden kann.
Der Tag sollte sich als Glückstag erweisen – für die Fische. Für die Anleger hingegen eine Katastrophe. Es ist, als hätten die Fische über Nacht dazu gelernt. In der gesamten ersten Tageshälfte können wir genau einen Fang verbuchen. Wiederum ist der Triumph mir vergönnt. So ruhen die gesamten Hoffnungen auf dem Nachmittag.
But first wait for a lunch on us. Today, not in the hotel but on a river island, in a natural setting in a small clearing on the shore. There is just quickly installed a rustic grill, to grill meat and fish brought. With bread and salad. Water for washing the ingredients is enough there - in abundance. Although the river water has a slightly cloudy appearance, but safe to drink.
This will just place a "Sashimi" were prepared. Somewhat "rustic" than anyone of Japanese restaurants in Germany should know. Take fresh fish and filleting this means in a skilled manner. The fish fillet is mixed with large amounts of raw onion, fresh grated ginger, pepper and plenty of soy sauce. Plates and cutlery are scarce, so in turn is eaten from a plate with a fork. Something connects. And it tastes good.
The afternoon meeting the hopes not, as far as that level of fishing. Only our Piloteiro is permitted to move to another Pacu from the water. My Companheiro Pedrinho is obviously disappointed, but I know as a professional, that is after fishing before the fishing. He spends around ten this weekend with free time. I however feel unduly compensated by the opportunity to observe various "exotic" animals in their natural environment. Ariranhas about, very large and dangerous otter, let us know loudly that we have invaded their territory. And various monkeys frolic in the trees near the shore.
So we finally return back to our humble prey to the hotel. We learn that our anglers colleagues had similar luck. Forget it. The owner of the hotel has tapped in time for our return, an iced beer keg, and offers the battle-weary anglers a "Chopp", a beer on tap, this word - you can imagine it - is derived from the German pint, in this country, however, used exclusively for beer.
It is a cheerful evening. More important than your fishing success in the eyes of sports fans gathered community ("Companhia") Freundschaft („amizade“) und Freude („alegria“). Recht so.
Obwohl es an diesem Abend natürlich später wird, sind am folgenden Morgen, dem Ostermorgen, um 6 Uhr alle bereit für die Abreise. Nicht vergessen werden darf natürlich, die gefangenen und inzwischen tiefgefroreren Fische einzuladen. Der vorausschauende Angler hat hierfür natürlich geeignete Behältnisse mitgebracht, welche nun zusätzlich mit Eis gefüllt werden. Alles ist verstaut, es kann losgehen.
Das Abenteuer im Pantanal geht langsam aber sich zu Ende. Anfang September wollen sie sich wieder auf den Weg machen. Und dann beißt er ganz bestimmt an, der ganz große Fisch.
NACHTRAG
Leider erwies sich nach meiner Rückkehr aus dem Pantanal die Speicherkarte mit der überwiegenden Mehrzahl der Fotos als defekt. Noch habe ich Hoffnung, dass die Aufnahmen gerettet werden können. Falls es so kommt, werde ich das Bildmaterial nachreichen.
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