We have now arrived in Salvador, the capital of Bahia. More than 3,000 miles we have traveled in the last eight days. With every mile we have learned this country know a little bit better and understood.
Saturday 9 January 2010: optimism
Tomorrow morning at 5 clock start we want. It will be with nearly 6,000 km, the longest (terrestrial) journey of my life. This applies to the other family members, including dog, too.
breaking up is always to leave the familiar environment. There are moments like these that my "inner dialogue" is very much alive. While the adventurer asks me why I was not already on the road, advises the temperate man in a considered me to plan and act. In the past there were times even before that one the other a complete surprise plea put forward by surprise. This is me this time - and in the future - no longer happen. So, set start time, make lists, and execute.
Among other things, ensure that someone takes care of our house. Our neighbors have kindly agreed to do so. But they are permitted to operate in the mangos (mangas), avocados (Abacate) and bananas ("bananas") to your heart's content. In general, the mangoes. I am deeply impressed to produce what a huge amount of beautiful fruit, a single tree of this genus can. I have learned that the fruit does not ripen on the tree of our mango places. Instead, take them off in hard condition. Then there are two possibilities: either it is in "green" State with salt, as an ingredient for salad. Or they wrapped in newspaper and let them lie a few days, until they become soft and sweet. A most amazing fruit, in my opinion.
Sunday 10 January 2010: rain at night
A trip of this magnitude will be fairly well planned. A classification in realistic daily stages is paramount. The stage of the first day will be the longest of the whole trip. To this end, we leave early on the morning of 5 clock. The implication of course is that the children continue to sleep in the car and we already have all the mountains when they wake up. The plan should rise. First, however, it is still dark. And it's raining.
We leave our city in an easterly direction. We quickly gain the insight that we want to avoid driving in the dark because of the sometimes very sparse road markings in the future. We are still progressing well. Children and dogs to sleep as scheduled. After about an hour, the longed-for light on the horizon. Hello, world.
After 200 miles we left the highway BR-262 and take the road MS-377. The condition of the road deteriorated instantly. Since there is what to do, Mr. Governor! Think about the elections this year!
The deplorable condition of the road surface is somewhat offset by the absence of traffic. We drive around the road virtually to ourselves, and can in a sporting style with the potholes.
After about 400 km we cross the border to the state of Minas Gerais. The name translates as "General Mines" and points out that there was mined in the past for all sorts of raw materials in the soil. Not just any base material was sought and found, but gold, silver and precious stones. Of this former wealth beget still many architectural and art works.
Our route is lined with endless sugar cane fields with the associated "usinas", "End-to-end production facilities for jenen Ethanol, den wir alle paar hundert Kilometer in den Tank unseres Autos füllen.
Etwa alle 50 Kilometer passieren wir eine Stadt: Iturama, São Francisco de Sales, Itapagipe, Frutal, Conceição de Alagoas und schließlich Uberaba, die mit 350.000 Einwohnern größte Stadt der Region.
Wenige Kilometer danach sind wir am Ziel: Die Pension („pousada“) „Estação do Dinossauro“ in Peirópolis, ein Ort von bezauberndem Charme und einnehmender Harmonie. Paulinho, der die Pension vor 2 Monaten übernommen hat, empfängt uns mit herzlicher Freundlichkeit und richtet in Windeseile 2 Zimmer für uns her. Das Gebäude ist hundert Jahre alt. Die Räume sind daher hoch, statt einer Klimaanlage sorgt ein ruhig kreisender Deckenventilator für ein angenehmes Lüftchen. Herrlich.
Der Name der Pension leitet sich von zwei Besonderheiten ab: Das Gebäude gehörte früher zu örtlichen Bahnstation („estação“). Und: Diese Gegend ist archäologisch bedeutsam aufgrund der zahlreichen Funde von Dinosaurierfossilien, which can be admired in the museum next door. A primeval crocodile immortalized the name of the region: "Uberabasuchus terrificus," the terrible crocodile of Uberaba.
The pension is a small paradise, with lush fruit garden, cozy sitting areas inside and outside the home, a refreshing swimming pool.
The many hours of travel are quickly shaken off and forgotten. In addition to the Pousada is a simple restaurant, but which is just about to close its doors. No problem. There is still Dona Albertina, an elderly lady who offered in her home by appointment simple meals. Everyone uses their heart's content directly in the kitchen. Simple food, completed in the interplay of aromas and tastes. to remind anyone know when we have eaten better lately? Minas Gerais is famous for its excellent cuisine.
evening Paulinho pushes me a guitar in hand. He uses a drum-like instrument, Oriana sings. Simple, yet rare and precious pleasure.
Monday 11 January 2010: Because it's so beautiful ...
Actually, we wanted to move on the same day. But because it is so beautiful here, we stay one more day. And Dona Albertina cooks lunch, too.
Other board guests tell us about another beautiful place near our next day's stage. I'm curious to see where we will spend the night after next.
But first we will enjoy this peaceful day. A visit to the dinosaur museum, a walk to the nearby waterfall, a conversation with Paulinho and his friends under a shady tree. These two specialties from Minas: cheese and aged rum (cachaça). The issues can not matter: politics, sustainable living and much more.
In the evening we can enjoy once more the grand courts of Dona Albertina. "Comida caseira“ nennt man das hier. Der Ausdruck „Hausmannskost“ trifft es nur annähernd. Es ist das Essen, was in den Häusern der einfachen Leute Tag für Tag zubereitet wird. Zubereitet wird das, was der Boden hergibt: Reis, Bohnen, Gemüse, ein wenig Fleisch. All das vereinigt zu einen harmonischen Ganzen, das keinen Schnaps zur Verdauung benötigt.
Dienstag, 12. Januar 2010
Wehmütig verlassen wir diesen wunderschönen magischen Ort. Kann man innerhalb von knapp zwei Tagen eine Freundschaft schließen? Offenbar schon.
Innerhalb einer Stunde erreichen wir die Stadt Araxá, Heimat von Dona Beja. Diese Dame wird im 19. Jahrhundert als Jugendliche an einen reichen portugiesischen Fazendeiro verschleppt und als Geliebte „gehalten“. Später, als dieser von seinem König nach Portugal zurückbeordert wird, lässt er sie – mit einem stattlichen Vermögen – zurück. Mitnehmen kann er sie nicht, da in Portugal seine Ehefrau wartet. Als reife Frau gelangt Dona Beja zu erheblichem politischem Einfluss in der Region.
In front of us now Belo Horizonte (Beautiful Horizon "), the sixth largest city in Brazil and the capital of Minas Gerais. In Greater "bra" has about five million people. On the way different mountain ranges (Serra's) to be overcome and to pass even more heavily laden trucks. Despite all the obstacles we are making good progress.
On our way to our destination, we must pass Belo Horizonte. Climb the stairs and take the ring road, take the exit towards Rio de Janeiro. Quite simply, really. If it was not a never-ending traffic jam that cost us almost two hours of our life.
But the confidence on board does not shrink. Rather, most creative ideas emerge. How about, what to do when the middle of the jam without a hard shoulder, the dog sometimes "must". He might even raise just short of the window.
But even the longest traffic jam ends at some point. And so we come from - after sunset - safe and sound in our Pousada in Mariana, the first capital of Minas Gerais to. A dip in the swimming pool, and the rigors of travel are shaken off.
Wednesday 13 January 2010
This day belongs to the history and culture. After a sumptuous breakfast ("Café da Manhã") leave in a few miles away, Ouro Preto, the old town since 1980 a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The name Ouro Preto in German means "black gold". Just over three hundred years to make gold in the area. Although this is not immediately recognizable as such because it is stained black by iron oxide impurities. It does not last long, and a real gold rush is lit.
has to culminate with Ouro Preto 150,000 residents, while living at this time in the former federal capital, Rio de Janeiro just 40,000 people. Most of the residents are men, many of them African slaves, the heavy work under Tage zu verrichten haben.
Die Goldvorkommen sind von dramatischem Ausmaß. Man schätzt, dass zwischen 1700 und 1800 etwa 1.000 Tonnen Gold aus der Erde geholt wurden. Ein erheblicher Teil davon wurde nach Portugal verschifft. Brasilien ist zu dieser Zeit noch portugiesische Kolonie. Von Portugal aus wiederum wandert ein großer Teil des Goldes nach England. Heute würde man sagen, dass Portugal damals ein großes Handelsbilanzdefizit mit England hatte. Die industrielle Revolution im England des achtzehnten Jahrhunderts wurde daher zu einem großen Teil mit dem Gold aus dem brasilianischen Ouro Preto bezahlt.
Our guide with the distinctive name Herculano told us many stories throughout the day. Among these: When you walk into one of the many splendidly decorated churches, we come first in a hall, which is adjusted from the view to the altar by a wall. This wall serves two purposes: First, it should slow the air flow through the nave, thus preventing the unwanted extinction of candles. Secondly, it referred the poor, the needy, the have-nots in their place: Thus far and no further. The "middle class" was allowed into the nave , To advance to the upper classes were, as reserved in theaters, lodges on the upper floor. From there, you really do not see the altar. But that was probably no longer relevant. The Sunday church attendance was apparently at that time primarily to networking.
Despite this checkered history, we are deeply impressed by the beautiful design of the churches in the interior. A name is mentioned again and again: "Aleijadinho. An exception sculptor at the time, suffered from a degenerative disease in old age. In advanced stages, als seine Finger bereits verkümmert waren, ließ er sich Hammer und Meißel an seine Hände binden, um so weiter arbeiten zu können. Manchmal bringt großes Leid große Taten hervor. Ich hoffe inständig, dass es auch anders geht.
Neben der genannten Dreiklassengesellschaft wären da noch die Sklaven. Die Sklaverei wird in Brasilien offiziell 1888 abgeschafft. Zur Zeit des Goldrausches im achtzehnten Jahrhundert ist die sie also noch allgemein gesellschaftlich akzeptiert. Dies gilt auch für die Kirche. Schwarze gelten nicht als Menschen, sondern als Sachen. They are not baptized, can not go to churches. All the more amazing is that in Ouro Preto is a church that was built by former slaves. The impressions of the day, let us back in a very thoughtful Constitution.
Thursday 14 January 2010
A pattern begins to emerge: On the even days we travel on odd days of rest or we make "Sightseeing". So now go back. Mariana, we take the road north to Santa Barbara. The site is still very hilly, almost gebirgig. Entsprechend kurvenreich verläuft die Straße. Entschädigt werden wir durch fantastische Ausblicke in Täler und auf Berge, von denen einige jedoch einen „angefressenen“ Eindruck machen. Hier werden in großem Stil Rohstoffe aus der Erde geholt, Eisenerz unter anderem. Irgendwo muss der Stahl für Autos, Schiffe etc. ja herkommen. Der Preis des Fortschritts.
Kurz nach Santa Barbara fahren wir auf die Bundesstraße BR-381 auf. Die Hoffnung, dort schneller voranzukommen erfüllt sich nicht. Die Landschaft bleibt atemberaubend, doch unsere Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit falls short of expectations. You just can not have it all.
will make matters different sites where the traffic can flow alternately on only one track. In Brazil, there seems to be popular, repair of all the main holiday season the streets.
Just before dusk we left the state of Minas Gerais. Except for the road conditions, remains an enthusiastic impression. "Minas" is terrific. We definitely want to return again and discover more of it.
Now we are in the state of Espirito Santo - "Holy Spirit". It is now dark, and we have not eaten. On the roadside, we see a house that looks really like a restaurant, in front of the chairs but are more than a normal house. We ask that. Yes, there is dinner. Self-service. We use. Simple, decent food, for about 10 €. For all of us together. Can not complain. Especially when you consider that the Hosts made us aware that we were on the wrong track. Once bent not just pay attention and wrong. Muito obrigado.
Keep going. The night sky lit our way. And the reflectors on the road. Right in white, yellow stripe in the middle, the left edge in red. Quite logical when you consider that we in the land of football on the go.
Finally, we finally arrive at our pousada. We smell the sea. However, it is enough to more no more. It's almost midnight. We are tired. Mainly a place to sleep. No matter where and how.
Friday 15 January 2010
Our Pousada is the opposite of the churches in Ouro Preto. While each church to make the outside a rather deplorable impression that they are internally very magnificent. This really says it all. The establishment is located in the front row, with direct access to beach. This swimming pool. This has its price. This will then be saved to the rooms again. Isaac, does our "single point of contact" are Bestes, kann die beengten Verhältnisse aber auch nicht ändern.
Wir frühstücken und verbringen einen entspannten Vormittag am Strand. Dabei beschließen wir, unseren Rhythmus zu durchbrechen und bereits am Nachmittag weiterzufahren. Man kennt das ja: Wenn Mäuse auf beengtem Raum gehalten werden, dann führt das zu Stress und Aggressivität. Wir wollen vermeiden, dass es so weit kommt. Also packen und zahlen.
Und schon stehen wir vor einer weiteren Herausforderung. Die Kreditkartenmaschine funktioniert leider nicht, und unsere Barbestände reichen nicht aus, um unsere Verbindlichkeiten zu begleichen. Also Geld abheben. Nun ist es in Brasilien nicht so, dass man als Kunde einer Bank bei allen anderen Banken Geld abheben kann. Wir haben Glück und bekommen Bargeld. Hätte das nicht geklappt, so hätten wir auch noch einen Plan B in der Tasche gehabt: Echte Euros, die wir in einer „casa de câmbio“ in brasilianische Reais (1 Real, mehrere Reais) verwandeln könnten.
Wir würden vor der Abreise gerne noch einen gebratenen Fisch verzehren. Allerdings wird uns der Eintritt verwehrt. Schuld ist der Hund. Also begnügen wir mit ein paar „pasteis“. Ein „pastel“ ist eine in Öl gebackene Teigwaren, die mit Käse und/oder Fleisch gefüllt ist.
Die vor uns liegende Tagesetappe beläuft sich auf geschätzte 350 km. Der größte Teil davon verläuft auf der Bundesstraße „BR-101“, welche die gesamte brasilianische Ostküste durchzieht. Diese Bundesstraße, die wichtigste Brasiliens, besitzt die stolze Länge von über 4.500 Kilometern.
After 50 miles we cross the border from Espirito Santo to Bahia. Bahia is the fifth largest state, and about the size of France. Almost 1,000 kilometers of the above "BR-101" run solely by Bahia. The capital of Bahia, Salvador. If not the goal, but the turning point of our trip.
The landscape is characterized by sparse vegetation, mixed with eucalyptus plantations. This tree is not native to Brazil, grows but probably also on undemanding terrain and can be processed into furniture and paper.
The terrain is hilly to mountainous, still, according to the road. Numerous severe torture-laden trucks at a walking pace up the slopes. But they come down in many cases not progressing much faster. I guess they believe - rightly - not too much to their brakes.
Many Brazilians have - according to the daring close to overtaking, a very strong faith in God. Again and again urge motorists millimeter in the gap before us, so as to make a place good.
We pass on the Monte Pascoal National Park. This park is currently managed by Indians. In three hours you can climb the mountain and look down there on the 38 km from the sea. Just over 500 years, when the first Portuguese landed here, it was vice versa. They saw the sea from these mountains.
We have now reached the "Costa do Descobrimento", the Discovery Coast. Here began the conquest of Brazil by the whites. This is also the goal of our day's stage: Trancoso.
Trancoso is a popular tourist destination, but this - is to have a special charm - so the description. After a long slumber, the place in the seventies, is discovered by the so-called hippies again.
Our pousada in Trancoso has proven itself - the second time on this trip - as a small paradise. A little away from the center are located small apartment house in a large garden spread. Lots of wood, lots of ceramics. A wonderfully natural atmosphere, which draws us immediately into the spell. However, it is here in Trancoso not the charm of old buildings, but rather the harmonious interaction of nature and building.
by the owner and her daughter, we learn that the Pousada has existed for almost 30 years. Earlier, as the ex-husband, German, English and English fluently, was still there, many foreign visitors came here. Now the daughter wants to learn English properly, to tie it again. The language barrier remains a major obstacle to international tourism. Hardly any non-Brazilians dominated this exotic Portuguese. And still a few Brazilians speak good English.
on the site any time they could build a large number of chicken cage spacious guest rooms and thus probably a much larger Profit erzielen. Wir sind Ihnen dafür dankbar, dass sie es nicht tun.
Zum Abendessen begeben wir uns zum „Quadrado“, dem angeblich schönsten Platz an der gesamten brasilianischen Küste. Und die ist über 7.000 km lang. Nun, der Platz ist nicht quadratisch, sondern hat eher die Form eines langgestreckten Rechtecks. Der Rand des Platzes ist gesäumt von vielen kleinen Geschäften sowie Restaurants und Bars. Wir folgen der Empfehlung unserer Gastgeber und speisen im „Sabor da Bahia“ („Geschmack von Bahia“). Gegrillter Fisch with rice and salad, plus a plate of fried shrimp (camarão ") and looking for a caipirinha. What could be simpler.
But where is the beach? When I asked a woman from the place I get a thoughtful answer that tomorrow morning we should simply follow the flow of people ("Fluxo"). Oh yes, it's high season.
We put ourselves to sleep. Air conditioning is in place, but remains off. Instead, we leave the ceiling fan circle, and - open the windows. Yes, there are mosquitoes, but also mosquito nets, which hang down in soft waves from the ceiling and cover the beds.
Saturday 16 January 2010
6 clock in the morning. The heavenly silence wakes me up. Getting up is weightless. In daylight reveals the "Pousada do Bosque" ("Forest Board") its full glory. A green sea with colorful little islands in the form of individually designed apartment house. A treat for man and dog.
The breakfast buffet leaves nothing to be desired. Well-saturated, we look toward the day. As with our first stop we take the liberty to stay another day. Whilst we must move to another apartment, but that's done quickly.
It quickly becomes hot. Beach or the beach? Opinions are divided. While men and dogs who prefer to relax in the hammock, the men are walking on the path to the beach. Up to the central square, dem Quadrado. Am Ende des Platzes bei der Kirche empfängt uns ein überwältigender Ausblick auf den „Kokospalmenstrand“ („praia dos coqueiros“). Palmen, weißer Sand, grün schimmerndes Meer – wie gemalt.
Ein weitgehend schattiger Weg führt hinunter zu diesem Idyll. Am Strand angekommen, fällt unser Blick auf bequeme Liegen aus Holz mit Matten aus irgendeinem strohartigen Material, komplettiert durch ansprechende Kissen. Ob die wohl zu einem Hotel gehören? Nein, zu einer Bar. Und wir können uns nach Belieben niederlassen. Die Einladung We take this requirement, or order two "Águas de coco" - iced green coconuts, in which a hole is hit, so you can enjoy the coconut water with a straw. Then the empty nut with brute force is divided into two parts so that you can eat the tender flesh with a spoon. So not only a beverage but a light snack.
For Dining options include not only the staff of the bar, but also countless "itinerant vendor" that offer all sorts of goodies. A kommt gar mit einem großen Tablett gebratener Langusten (!) vorbei. Nein, das wollen wir aus Prinzip nicht.
Nach der Mittagsruhe begibt sich die ganze Familie zum Strand, Hund inklusive. Mittlerweile ist der Wasserspiegel angestiegen. Von dem breiten Strand am Vormittag ist nur noch ein kleiner Streifen übrig. Herrliche Wellen locken uns ins Wasser. Hund exklusive. Bald wird es dunkel. Zeit zur Rückkehr in die Pousada, um sich für das Abendessen („jantar“) fertigzumachen. Es wird wieder Fisch, heute mit Shrimpssoße („molho de camarão“). Als Vorspeise Crab meat ("casquinha de siri"). We forget for a moment that the oceans are fished out and enjoy the meal in full.
Sunday 17 January 2010
We left our little paradise. The aim of the present Tagetappe: Salvador da Bahia, home to my mother. Turning point of our trip. The departure is delayed. No one can really break loose. Then it wins the reason. We leave with a silent sigh Trancoso and head for the BR-101 north. The sea, we shall meet again only in Salvador. Die Straße verläuft 50 bis 100 Kilometer im Landesinneren. 720 Kilometer sind zurückzulegen. Heute, am Sonntag, ist das Verkehrsaufkommen deutlich geringer als am vergangenen Freitag. Insbesondere sind viel weniger LKWs unterwegs. Doch die Straße bleibt kurvenreich. Im Ergebnis kommt unsere Durchschnittsgeschwindigkeit – inklusive Pausen – über 65 km/h nicht hinaus. Geschätzte Ankunftszeit also gegen 22 Uhr.
Diese Aussicht trübt jedoch die Stimmung in keiner Weise. Wenn wir heute unser Ziel nicht mehr erreichen, so wird sich unterwegs eine Pousada finden, die uns aufnimmt. At a distance of 50 kilometers, we passed through villages of small and medium size. None of them really invites you to linger. Bahia is a rich state. But the wealth is concentrated particularly strong.
darkness is spreading. Extensive dusk as we in Central European latitudes are accustomed place here does not occur. The sun is here ruckzuck from the dust. Now the highest concentration is in demand. Reflective road markings - nil. Particular attention must be near populated areas, "lombadas" bead-like elevations in the pavement, which can only be crossed at a walking pace, you will not put the integrity of the vehicle and its occupants at risk. And then there are times usually dark-skinned pedestrians who appear suddenly in the spotlight at the roadside. It is therefore provided for guests.
The last hundred run on a four-lane road. Then, once the gas. I'm driving. One hundred percent attention. Yet I can not avoid the pothole. The violent blow all sorts of things swirling through each other inside the vehicle. From the left front wheel, we hear unwanted noise that God fade away, thanks. If the spontaneous prayer worked instantly? The area is pitch dark. Here to stop and change a tire would be no fun.
keeps the material. "Volkswagen. The car. "With this slogan, in this German words, Volkswagen advertises here in Brazil. Is it something to it quality at the proverbial German?
We achieve Salvador. Now only the house of my mother found. Strictly speaking, the house belongs to us. In this respect, there is something grotesque: a homeowner in search of their property. We serve as points of the airport and Praia de Flamengo ", the" Flamengo Beach. By joining forces, we will reach our goal. What joy, what a relief.
Monday 18 January 2010
With the soothing sounds of the Atlantic we sleep exhausted one. With the soothing sounds of the Atlantic we wake rested on. The dog, as always first. It is shortly after six clock in the morning. He wants out. Today it's my turn. Then get to the beach. Walk just five minutes. This beach is now us. For the next 8 days.
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