Corumbá, Pantanal After the trip is before the trip. Before Christmas we want to spend a few days in the Pantanal. The Pantanal is a wetland the size of western Germany and since 2000 a UNESCO World Natural Heritage.
Our goal is Corumbá, situated a city of about 100,000 inhabitants, on the border with Bolivia. In the immediate vicinity of which lies the small town Ladário, Orianas home in the years 1974 to 1976.
PARK ROAD
The Road to Corumbá is simple. In Campo Grande, we first follow the signs to the airport, these can be left and go straight over 400 kilometers. Stay on the main road 262 ("BR-262"). Since the navigation system can remain safely at home.
In the last hundred miles may vary, however, and you take the old dirt road - the so-called "Estrada Parque" to German Park Road. This road is not aware of asphalt to the volume of traffic as possible gering zu halten, denn sie führt mitten durch den Pantanal.
Wir erkundigen uns nach dem Zustand der Straße und, ermutigt durch die positive Auskunft, beschließen, die Abenteuerroute zu wählen. Mehr als 70 Brücken sind im Schritttempo zu überqueren. Bei niedrigem Wasserstand, wie im Moment, können einige umfahren werden. Allerlei Getier kreuzt unseren Weg: Capivaras, Geier, ein Hirsch, verschiedene Vögel.
Nach einem Viertel der Strecke is the air conditioning be turned off by suspicious noises, and must. This is now a very bad time, because it is hot and dusty. We wanted adventure. You're welcome.
are supposedly on the human inhabitants of the Pantanal four alligators ("Jacare"). Some are hundreds of them we met - motionless and without any conceivable interest of human flesh. The Panatanal alligators are said not aggressive towards people. I did not intend to address this issue and keep my family members on, leave the car doors open and not more than 5 meters away from the vehicle.
About half way prevents us from advancing deeper into the Rio Paraguay on their own. We trust on a ferry that charges a fully loaded truck and then just a bit of room for us and our vehicle has left.
The Rio Paraguay is the main water artery of the Pantanal. Since he has an extremely low gradient, it washes over in high water large areas of the Pantanal. This particular combination has produced a unique nature reserve with more fish and birds than in all of Europe.
pull the last two kilometers,. A moderate hill is overcome. Finally, the road leads back to the main road. Welcome back to civilization.
Pousada do Cachimbo The board ("pousada"), in which we have booked for 3 nights, is easy to find. Einfach der Beschilderung Richtung Bolivien folgen, dann vor der Grenze die letzte Straße rechts. Was für ein traumhaftes Plätzchen. Der Blick schweift über das Tal des Rio Paraguai. Rinder grasen beschaulich, lautlos kündigt sich ein atemberaubender Sonnenuntergang an.
Die Hausherrin, Dona Jane, begrüßt uns freudig und erläutert ausführlich Flora und Fauna. Der Garten, das ist ihre Passion. Der Star ist jedoch ein anderer – ein Haustier. Ein roter männlicher Arara, der vor vielen Jahren in offensichtlicher Unkenntnis has received the name of the true conditions Lara. Now he is already 30 years old and no longer wants to rename the beast of his familiar name.
Lara loves to be tickled in the neck. But not by everyone. Of men did not before. But women must work patiently his favor. Deborah brings to the required patience and may approach within a few hours Lara, without fear of a painful bite must.
Schließlich erzählt Dona Jane unserer Tochter, dass Lara manchmal auch tanzen würde. Dazu müsse man jedoch eine Melodie spielen oder singen. Nun ist Deborahs Ehrgeiz endgültig entfacht. Da ihre Geige nicht zur Hand ist, entscheidet sie sich für Pfeifen. Lara lässt sich Zeit. Sehr viel Zeit. Doch sie hatte wohl nicht mit der Hartnäckigkeit unserer Tochter gerechnet.
LULU Der Pantanal ist eine Gegend mit sehr viel Wasser. Und wo Wasser ist, sind auch Fische. Und wo Fische sind, werden diese auch verspeist. And this one was our first questions to our host, where in the city because they could eat good fish.
would have the answer our host may be more ambiguous: The best fish of course at Lulu. Following is the statement that it would be a simple restaurant - no frills, no air conditioning. How nice. We agree that we want to try this tip on the first evening.
Lulu Brazil is a common nickname for people who are called real name is Luis (or Luiz). So a man's name. In this case it is the name of the man who for over forty years, runs this small restaurant. About six years ago, he had to give up the core task of cooking to his wife and his children because he had a stroke since this is no longer allowed. He is concerned, however, still present and for the welfare of his guests.
The obligatory TV is also missing here, but, thankfully, is muted. Photos with guests and posters adorn the walls of football clubs. The menu is pleasantly straightforward: the left, the fish dishes - seven, eight in number, the right drinks. Done. On the list of side dishes are not eliminated because they are in all courts the same: rice, "farofa" (toasted manioc meal with fried banana), "PIRAO" (with flour thickened fish stock) and Molho de vinaigrette (chopped tomatoes and onions in vinegar and oil). And just to the fish. Filet of "Pintado", a here encountered fish that tastes up to 1.5 m long and 30 kg and is extremely delicious. For example, roasted or fried or with a creamy sauce.
The evening turns into a culinary experience. The bill remains manageable. Every penny is justified. Deborah would like piranha soup (caldo de piranha ") tried, but this court is now not available. Also next week not. We learn that in this time of year is hardly Piranhas
AIR LINES So overwhelming the natural ambiance of our "Pousada" is - moving with the views of the Rio Paraguay and the adjoining flood plain, so simple, the rooms are laid out and equipped.
Hauptstörfaktor of noise-sensitive people like me are the air conditioners. "Classic" compressor systems, compact, easily pushed into a hole in the wall, plug in the socket - that's it. Air conditioners are a status symbol in Brazil: The colder, more luxurious.
These devices are major consumers of electricity and - on my personal scale noise - loud. In addition, these devices produce consensus water that drips on the outside of the building down. In the case of our room on the ground floor these drops of water falling softly and silently in the grass. But if - as in our last night here - the room above us occupied and the associated air-conditioning is in operation, so that the drops fall exactly on the housing system in our plant. An annoying leaky faucet, which one could leave only with sabotage similar means. Thus, the reason would be found as to why these lines formed by 4 clock in the morning.
It could be that - solve different - with a little good will and material costs. The problem to be solved is: Keep First, mosquitoes. Second, to mitigate heat prevailing in the night. adopted only once: the rooms each have a large window on the front and back. The windows are clean on the outside covered with fine mesh mosquito net. A silent ceiling fan provides good air circulation. The only audible sound is coming from outside - from crickets, parrots and other animals.
Corumbá
Corumbá is not exactly littered with interest. For several years the "Christ of the Pantanal" is ("Cristo Rei do Pantanal"), the symbol of the city - obviously inspired by the great model in Rio de Janeiro.
postive we were very surprised by the new Museum of the Pantanal. On three floors you will find - in Portuguese and English - an excellently prepared presentation of the history of the region. Unfortunately, there is no catalog to take and read.
BOLIVIEN Ein kurzer Abstecher nach Bolivien darf natürlich nicht fehlen. Bolivien gehört zwar nicht zur Wirtschaftsunion „Mercosul“. Die Grenze macht dennoch einen sehr offenen Eindruck. Auf bolivianischem Gebiet fallen gleich sehr große Wahlplakate ins Auge. Am 6. Dezember wurde der amtierende Staatspräsident Evo Morales, der erste indigene Staatschef Südamerikas, mit 63% der Stimmen wiedergewählt.
Bolivien ist das Armenhaus des Subkontinents. Fast die Hälfte der Population is considered poor. The country is rich in various resources (including natural gas and lithium). The proceeds went into the past, all too often into the coffers of foreign, especially American companies.
fits in with this that has led Evo Morales his first campaign was not against his opponent, but against the then U.S. ambassador. In his first term, the raw material industry has largely been placed under state control. That this can be a recipe for success, make ahead of Brazil: The state-controlled oil company Petrobras is one of the successful in the world and also the technological leader.
extent to which the majority of the population of Morales' policies will benefit significantly, I can not judge. Opinions are - of course - contradictory. Anyway - we have gained an addiction.
CATTLE ALARM This trip was mainly used to visit the places of childhood memory Orianas. We agree that we want to once again come to the Pantanal - then but away from the city on one of the plantations, which have focused on ecotourism (eco-turismo ") specialized.
On the way back we have twice the way through vast cattle herds that were about to cross the highway.
way Deborah was still their piranha soup. During our last visit to Lulu us expected this with the happy news that he had succeeded was to purchase a Piranha. A radiant face of a child thanks him his trouble. Patiently waiting for the court - must be cooked slowly, the fish. The wait is worth it. A culinary revelation.
FELIZ NATAL
We wish you all Merry Christmas (Feliz Natal ") and a happy new year. In the new year we will get back from this point.
PS: For the next few days will be here quiet summer weather with occasional showers and temperatures around 30 degrees erwartet.
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